The wave

Did you already happen to be really scared one time in your life? I’m going to try to explain to you how that happened to me. I like surfing with my friends when I return home, but this time was very different from the other times. That’s happened when I was sixteen. I was coming home for two weeks in December because at this period, I was studying in France and my family stayed in an island.
It was a beautiful day, like everyday in winter in this island, and I decided to go to the beach with my mother. We went to my favourite beach in that moment in the northeast coast, and when we arrived, it was awful. I saw all these waves arrived in front of my mother and me. These waves were huge, probably around three or four meters, but for this period, it was the regular size. I decided to go in the wate...